Devastation. Summer has come. While summer brings plenty of joy and happiness, what it has in store for us Salt Lake City climbers may not be quite as pleasant. For climbers who frequent the local boulders and routes in Little and Big Cottonwood, the summer heat and sun’s intensity transforms gritty granite holds into greasy edges that can be frustrating to even hold, much less move off of. Climbers are relegated to late night sessions and short, seemingly random, weather windows. Even in the gym, sweat pours down faces and hands form their own jungle ecosystems as fans and AC units fight an impossible uphill battle against the heat.
The Adventures of the Uintas
Now imagine, if you will, a summer climbing oasis. Not an oasis of water, but one of climate. Colder temperatures and cool mountain breezes. Chilly lakes and the sounds of rustling pines. Mosquitoes, sure, but seemingly endless cliffs and boulder fields to explore. Most minds may drift to meccas such as Squamish or the Rockies, but others may become enchanted by someplace closer to home. Someplace, importantly, that it is day-trippable. Known by some (and by “some” I mean me) as the Shangri-La of the West, the Uinta Mountains are a host of extensive sport routes and an ever growing number of boulders. On top of this, it is a great place to waste countless hours exploring its vastness and getting lost (in the best way possible).
One of the greatest things about the Uintas is the sense of wonder and adventure it can bring to a trip. The amazing views of the sprawling range you can see after topping out a powerful boulder or clipping the chains of a taxing sport route make the pay off so much sweeter. Being able to breathe the fresh mountain air and take in the beauty of the surrounding area after putting in so much effort into a climb is incredibly rewarding and something that any climber in the area should try to experience at least once, if possible.
Many areas have a developed trail to follow, but for mavericks who are looking for something a little more adventurous, there are plenty of zones that are a bit more tricky to find. Even in developed areas, the adjacent wilderness may hide gems yet to be climbed. I had the opportunity to make a trip up to Arta Lake with a couple of my friends and we spent hours rock-hopping, down-climbing, and scrambling across the immense boulder field nearby, which seemed to go on forever. At a certain point, the only sign we saw of human development was the occasional faded chalk mark, a vestige of some climber’s exploits long ago.
For individuals who care not for developing or trudging around in the bushes, the boulders and routes already developed are high quality and have something for climbers of every level. For example, Stone Garden, which has the unique quality of being both a sport climbing and bouldering destination (literally within a minute’s walk of each other), has sport routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.13a and boulders ranging from V1 to V13. Routes on the Stone Garden cliff vary in style from techy face climbing to burly overhangs. The boulders have even more variety. Burly climbs full of underclings to keep your biceps bulging. Highballs that require solid mental fortitude. Overhung crimp climbing. Big moves. Techy slabs. Powerful compression lines that will make you feel like your head is exploding with each move. All on quality rock on a beautiful plateau overlooking the mountain range.
More to do Then Just Climb
For regular folk who don’t like to tear their skin off for fun, or for the climber who just needs a break, there are lots of other interesting things to do besides getting on top of rocks. The Uintas contain many lakes, hiking trails, and scenic viewpoints to fill a number of days, even weeks, with things to do. Some lakes require long hikes, such as Naturalist Basin (which has more than one lake) and Amethyst Lake. These can also be fun to turn into backpacking trips. Other lakes—for those not looking for such a demanding approach—are right by the road for easy access and fun day trips, and these include Mirror Lake, Butterfly Lake, Washington Lake and more.
In terms of hiking, of course, the Uintas contain the legendary King’s Peak—the highest point in Utah—for those looking for a special challenge. For those looking for something more leisurely, there are many other shorter day hikes, as well. With all of these options, be not afraid if rock climbing isn’t your thing.
A Good Trip is Not Far From Home
A lot of this information may seem arbitrary for many people, but if you take anything from all of this rambling, let it be this: you don’t have to go to some far off place to escape the heat and have an adventure (although if you have the means and the desire, by all means do so). A lot of the time, the places closest to you have plenty to offer and are just waiting for people to discover it—or to experience what has already been discovered. So next time you’re feeling trapped in the city and want to escape, give local areas, like the Uintas, a chance. Spend some time finding something new. Get out there! Explore! Have fun! Oh, and stay safe, of course. If you want. I don’t know, I’m not your mom. I’m just writing this article.